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February 10, 2008

Only Ordinary Men

When time flies, as it has for this blog, you tend to not do the things that remind you of all the things you should say to your close friends. And then in a flash, the moment is lost forever.

Such is life in this valley, state, world. But nothing could possibly compare to the moment that I lost in the passing of Tom Dowdy.

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Tom Dowdy at the Poubelle Summer Party 2003...(photo by wjc)

I met Tom during the first time I worked at Apple. Over the years I left for other opportunities but I always seemed to drift back to Apple, and Tom was always there. Apple is an interesting and sometimes fantastic place to work but it was the fact that he was "just down the hall in IL2" or "across the bridge in IL1" that always lifted my spirits when Apple was merely an "interesting" place to work.

When he invited me to one of his dinner parties, we found that we had a mutual appreciation for the same music (progressive rock and, most notably, the band Dream Theater) and food. For the latter, "appreciation" is understating it a bit. It was full-blown obsession. Eventually, I was cooking with Tom at a majority of his legendary parties, and in recent years as his "lead" sous-chef. His dinner parties exemplified the concept that "you always cook for the people you love".

For me, it went deeper than that. I have always given freely to those that I love by cooking (being from a primarily Italian family, if you didn't learn that, then you weren't paying attention...). However, with Tom, it was a master lesson in the power of two friends in the kitchen exploring and discovering new things both about the food and each other, and then turning that into something that he(we) freely gave of ourselves.

He was a mentor to me for techniques and other things that I either didn't know or only had a passing familiarity. And I'm positive that I was able to teach him some things as well. Whichever way, he was always gracious, helpful, encouraging and giving - in his kitchen *and* mine.

We developed a kind of psychic link when we were in the kitchen. A nod, a glance, a grunt...most of the time we could finish each other's sentences as true friends often can. It was uncanny...and deeply satisfying.

Things have been tough (for me) lately, on all fronts. The valley tends to temporarily chew people up at times, even the strong ones and I have had no real inspiration to write about food here in Two. Ate. Yet I cook on, using techniques that Tom taught me as well as my own, to feed anyone who happens to be in the house. I do it gladly because...well, that just how I do. I always understood "why", Tom showed me the meaning of "why".

Only ordinary men could be so loving and giving. It takes an extraordinary person to paint himself as "just an ordinary guy" and still do all the things, and touch all the lives that Tom touched. He touched mine right down to the bottom of my soul. It is something that I will never, ever forget.

Tom, I hope to see you again someday, my beautiful friend, then we can be the ordinary men that we always want to be.

October 05, 2006

Potato Salad with vinaigrette

(originally posted to Gastronome (hi meriko!))

A few weeks ago, I was craving a potato salad but didn't want anything with mayo, or sour cream, or yogurt. I had been playing around with vinegars so hit upon a slightly decadent but pretty straightforward rendition that you could call a "salad". However, I originally served it as a side but recently made it for our annual Santa Cruz Shakespeare picnic outing....

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September 12, 2006

Not Enough Time In The Day

So...it has been 3 whole months since returning from Tokyo and it has been a time of experimenting with new recipes (coming up with a few originals in the process), as well as revisiting some old favorites. Since it bugs me not to write here on a regular basis, I'll just recap some of what's been going on, cooking-wise in our household...alas, none of it was documented with pictures. We’ll have to work on being better at that.

Texas Barbecue
Directly after returning from Tokyo, we put on our every-three-years Texas barbecue party. It's every three years solely because our last one was three years ago. Back then, we were kind of flying by the seat of our pants, stabbing in the dark as to how to throw a party for more then 10 people at a time (we had 36). So this time we were way more prepared. The goal was to beat our 55 pounds of meat record and we blew by that like it was no thing at all. When all was said and done, we cooked over 80 pounds of meat (two briskets, six pork butts, six chickens, six racks of ribs, a bunch of sausage, rib tips/ends). The smoking started the Friday night before the Saturday party so we managed to have some 17-hour brisket hit the table. We had over 44 people show up and most of the food was GONE when they were done!

Recipe development
We have been playing around with beans and potatoes lately. It has been mostly beans as I have had an unnatural craving for the tasty morsels. Black bean salsa, black beans and rice, borrachos (pintos cooked in stock and beer)...so many bags of beans have graced our kitchen. As far as potatoes...we developed a recipe for a picnic involving white potatoes and vinaigrette. It was born out of a craving for a summer potato salad that didn’t have mayonnaise or yogurt and could travel well. I’ll post it here…in a day or two but you can go to Gastronome and see it here)

Sunday roast dinner
The first time I went to London, my friends Shelley and Richard took my jet-lagged ass to a local pub for a Sunday roast dinner. And even though there was a large plate of meat and potatoes, it perked me right up. Well, the drawn ale helped too… A few days ago, sitting in a local pub (Katie Bloom's), I remembered how good it was and decided to do a roast dinner on the upcoming Sunday. It was a straight forward menu: roast prime rib, white potatoes, baby carrots, salad, Yorkshire pudding. The roast was slow-cooked at 275° until it got to around 115°. It coasted to 125° then went back into a 500° oven for 10 minutes to form that classic crust. All that and a bottle of 2001 Clos du Lac Cabernet made a nice way to end the week.

March 18, 2006

White Bean and Sausage Soup

My Italian grandmother used to make the most amazing soups. To be honest, she made the most amazing EVERYTHING...but a conversation with a foodie co-worker inspired tonight's dinner. I got to thinking about white beans (lupini, northern white, cannelini) and how well they go with sausage and my thoughts raced back to steaming bowls of chicken broth with various vegetables (plus escarole) that my grandmother made on a regular basis. I think that she just did these soups with what was on hand and so they always had little hidden surprises...

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February 20, 2006

Cookpad - My First Recipe

Ok, so it's not exactly a typical Two. Ate. post but I (finally) completed my first Japanese language recipe for natto spaghetti (go here for the Two. Ate. version) posted to the ultra-neato Cookpad. Cookpad is a Japanese website where members can post their recipes (and people can search those recipes).

You can see the entry here and if you read Japanese, you can grade me on my instructions on how to make this dish....

I'll post a picture up there in a day or two - we've got two packs of natto in the fridge just waiting to be used.

January 17, 2006

Unachazuke

Our friend Soma and Kazumi sent us a "shogatsu" package from Japan this year which included an amazing dish that we ended up eating on New Year's day: unachazuke.

Ochazuke is a Japanese dish of ultimate simplicity: rice with green tea poured over it. Most ochazuke also has some sort of fish or vegetable on top of the rice which also flavors the whole package. Unachazuke is ochazuke with unagi (eel) on top of it...

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January 02, 2006

Mochi and Shougatsu

Every year for the past 10 years, we celebrate "shougatsu" and make and eat mochi. Shougatsu is the celebration of the New Year, Japanese style. Although we don't do absolutely everything for shougatsu, we still hold on to several traditions.

Osechi Ryouri (御節料理)
This an eye-popping spread of specially prepared foods just for the new year. Fish cake (kamaboko), black and white beans (kuro and shiro mame), chestnuts (kuri) and other delights are all cut up and arranged artfully on a huge-ass plate. Lots of the food is "preserved" in some way as the "real" celebration involves this food sitting out for anywhere from a 1/2 day to several days.
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This year's (somewhat) small osechi plate...

We also make Ozouni (お雑煮) which is a traditional New Year's day soup made from dashi (Japanese fish stock), chicken, carrot, mizuna (or spinach), fish cake and toasted mochi. It's easy to make and very delicious with the addition of toasted mochi.
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The whole spread including the ozouni (in the small brown bowls)...

You can read and see more about making mochi (餅) by following the link below...

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December 24, 2005

The Most Wonderful Time Of The Year

Why?

- Syrian sweets at the ultra-cool International Food Bazaar in San Jose (2052 Curtner Avenue, San Jose, CA 95124)
- buying matzoh ball mix at Cosentino's (and that's all this year...one item, no line, in and out in 5 minutes...)
- perusing the beautiful fish, live blue crabs and mussels at 99 Ranch but buying 3 pounds of chicken carcass and one pack of chicken feet for our annual chicken soup (with aforementioned matzoh balls)
- a huge-ass bag of Korean extra-large chestnuts also at 99 Ranch for $2 (the not-so-good part...peeling them...ouch...wait, wait...the BEST part: eating them...)
- finding Karen's French Bakery Rye bread AND La Brea's Chocolate Sour Cherry bread (plus a crottin of La Tur, nicely runny)...all in the same place....

December 18, 2005

The Annual Baklava Jam

Janet and I have many unique traditions around the Christmas/New Year's holidays: we make chicken soup with matzoh balls on Christmas Eve, eat deli food (shipped overnight from New York) and make baklava. I don't really know where making baklava started for us but it's kind of a pain in the butt to make but also kind of fun and ends up being nice to have around the house for the inevitable drop-in guests...

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Almond baklava. A bit of pulverized almond (almond ground with sugar) marks the top of this one...
Filo dough, finely chopped nuts, sugar, cinnamon, honey, lemon and of course, butter. Lots of melted butter. Layering dough with melted butter sounds easy enough but filo dough often has it's own ideas. The key is to thoroughly THAW the dough then keep it covered while working with it. Peeling each sheet takes some finesse but once you do it a few times, it's pretty easy. 4-6 sheets go down then some of the nuts are scattered evenly across the dough...more layers, more nuts and so on. Cut before baking, a bit more butter, then bake.
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Walnut baklava. Pulverized pistachio gives a little hint of green and identifies this as the "walnut" version...

The really sweet component is the syrup made of honey, sugar, water, and lemon juice. All of this gets slowly boiled for 15-20 minutes. Once the baklava comes out of the oven, it gets poured over all of it. You *could* eat it while it's hot but it's better at room temperature as the syrup really gets to soak in.

December 12, 2005

Land Of The Six Hour Pork Rillettes

When we were in France, we ate rillette (say "ree-ette") which is long cooked meat (usually pork) shredded and packed then sealed with some meat fat. It's been called an "old-school" appetizer of the highest order and is really delicious.

I decided to try my hand at making rillette and the method looked pretty straight forward: cook meat, shred meat, pack meat, store meat, wait for a week then eat. Well, except for the waiting part, it was a snap. Two pounds of pork belly, one pound of pork shoulder, salt, pepper, thyme, parsley, bay leaf, pork fat...it felt just like making sausage.

The pork (not the fat) gets cut into cubes and all gets piled into a heavy bottomed pan and covered with four cups of water. Roll a bouquet garni (thyme/parsley/bay) and add to the pot. Bring to a boil then slowly simmer for six hours. No need to add water as you *want* the water to evaporate and render the fat. And pork belly is pretty packed with fat.

Around hour five, there was only pork and rendered pork fat in the pan and it started to brown ever so slightly. By the end of the hour, the kitchen smelled like I was cooking carnitas (which it could have easily been...). Kill the heat, stir in salt, pepper then let it cool until warm...and let the shredding begin. Actually, I drained the rendered fat and saved it since it would come in handy later...

I used two forks to pull the meat apart (for a while) trying to preserve the natural threads of the meat. That got tiring and used my fingers.
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The pork shreds nicely if it's still a bit warm...

All of this mixture got packed into five 8 oz. snap ring jars which I felt were small enough to provide 2-3 portions each plus they'd make good sized gifts to boot. The meat is packed semi-tightly as you can see here:
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Lovely...
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Ready for sealing...

While all of this action was taking place, the rendered pork fat started to set up. Rather than use strips of pork fat to lay over the top of the rillette, I used the rendered fat confit-style to seal the tops of the jars. Since most of the flavor is in the meat, the fat (in any form) is just used to seal the meat, keep it moist and preserve it for a while.
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The semi-liquid fat flowed and sealed the top of the rillette nicely...

To finish...wiped everything up - the whole process gets kind of greasy - attached the rubber snap rings and got them ready for a long sleeep in the fridge.
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Ready to go...just three days left...

They'll spend a minimum of three days in the fridge. That will allow the flavors marry and mingle. By Wednesday, we should be ready to devour.

November 24, 2005

Stealing Away Turkey Day

I think turkey is kind of boring. So two of the last three years, we have roasted a duck. With stuffing. And potatoes. And vegetables. And pie. Ok, we don't roast the pie....er... Our menu this year:

- Foie Gras Mousse with Cognac, Toast Points and Cornichons
- Our "Typical" French Frissee Salad with Lardon, Hand-made Crouton and Dijon Vinaigrette
- Roasted Duck with Sausage-Apple-Prune-Chestnut stuffing
- Roasted "Regular" and "Sweet" Potatoes
- Haricot Vert
- "Chess" Tart

Brief notes:
- the foie was left over from Janet's birthday dinner - there wasn't enough to make a pate so cognac and cream to the rescue
- the sausage was a Kentucky-style that I made back in June - just pork, pork fat, sage, salt and pepper
- I LOVE prunes so they HAD to go into the stuffing
- I had not intended to have a starch but roasted potatoes in duck fat are just too good not to do.
- a Chess pie is one of several pies from the 1700's that are made with things that you have "on-hand", like butter, eggs and sugar - I just baked it in a tart shell.

November 23, 2005

Our Annual Crab Feed

I always look forward to the night before Thanksgiving. Typically around this time of year, crab season starts. And so it did but there was some dispute among the crab fishermen and lots of the briny beasts were being held up from market...and the prices were, well, um...a bit high. But, no matter. The feed must go on.

We generally just hunker down with two whole crab, a loaf of crusty French bread, a salad and a bottle of wine from our cellar (right...the hall closet if you must know...). This year I got all inspired by our trip to Paris and made a charcuterie-based lentil salad with vinaigrette so we had that as well.... We eat until we have made a right mess of our living room then pass out for the evening. Most fun.

A few things to note: I *always* clean and "crack" my own crab that way I can save the crab "butter" (or "miso") for stirring into soups or adding to crabcakes. I don't really crack the legs as the guys at the market do (with a mallet, usually crushing shell INTO the meat...blah) but I make long-ish cuts in the shells. It works well and I don't get fragged. I (most) always make aioli. Garlic, oil and egg yolk for crab...a match made in heaven.

November 21, 2005

Natto Spaghetti rules!

We both love (LOVE!) natto. Natto is fermented soybeans...it's primarily Japanese (I think) and it's fragrant, sticky (REALLY sticky) and goes well with a bowl of hot rice, on toast, or rolled up in a maki sushi roll (natto-maki) but we like it best mixed with spaghetti. Lots of people think natto is disgusting, rotten food...ah, those who don't know....our recipe for natto spaghetti is here in the extended entry...

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November 07, 2005

Welcome to Two. Ate.

Hi there. Welcome.

1. We cook.
2. We eat.
3. We eat out.
Lather. Rinse. Repeat.

We're foodies through and through. When we plan vacations, we pick restaurants *first* then a place to sleep. We talk food constantly. We search out the unique and special in any neighbourhood we happen to be in. Then we talk some more about where we're eating next.

Two. Ate. is actually a morphing of a previous food blog called (not so uniquely, I was told a few days after I created it) "Mise En Place". That used to be a place where my cooking adventures were shared...unfortunately, not enough time in the day to think through how I created something to be able to write it down...so it stagnated.

However, Jan wanted to blog about our upcoming vacation (first time to Paris and Amsterdam) so I decided to create Two. Ate.

I think you'll get lots of entries here about what we do best: eat. So welcome.

-wm. and jan